So with the weather still snowy and inhuman over the weekend , and no power to work on the chicken coop or recycled greenhouse project – it was meter to cure the winter blahs with a construction labor ! And yes , as the service department became a temporary shop , sadly Mary ’s vehicle was once again the victim and banished to the driveway .

The theme came from the barn doors we construct from old floor for our b

The headboard can be made with a variety of materials .   If you want a rustic look – you could easily apply palette boards and old barn wood to make it completely from recycled materials .   It can also be build from simple framing lumber . Ours is a compounding of both , along with some salvaged barn hardware saved when we deconstructed two old barns .

barn door headboard

The idea came from the barn doors we built from old flooring for our barn

Since this was built for a king sized bottom – we progress it as two separate door frame and then attached them together once in the bedroom . It made it easier to move and work out with , not to mention set through tight hall !   When end up – it measured 6′ high-pitched disco biscuit 83″ all-encompassing .

Here are the basics on how we made ours :

Door Materials:(4 ) 2 x 6 x 72″(3 ) 2 x 4 x 80″(4 ) 2 x 10 x 29″(2 ) 2 x 4 x 29″(12 to 16 slice ) of 3/4″ or 1″ thick , 48″ recollective boardsTongue and vallecula wood , erstwhile b siding or pallet wood would forge great for this , we used some 3/4″ x 8″ wide lingua and channel boards we purchase at the timber grounds for around $ 40 .

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We cut all of our pieces to length to start, including the cured cuts for the top of the doors.

Trim Boards:(2 ) 2 x 4 x 72″(1 ) 2 x 4 x 85″

instrument Used : Tape criterion , Circular or Chop Saw , Drill , JigSaw , Nail gun , ( 30 ) 2 1/2″ screws , Biscuit Joiner ( overkill )

We cut all of our pieces to duration to start , including the cured cuts for the top of the doors .

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We then laid out the frame on the level upside down .

We attached the tongue and groove boards to the back of the bod with a nail gunman

We added 2 x 4 trim plug-in to each side and the top for superfluous detail

We then laid out the frames on the floor upside down.

We then laid out the frames on the floor upside down.

We added a single coat of grime , and it was sentence to attach the sure-enough barn hardware

Step 1 – Cut MaterialsWe started by cut all the cloth to length – using   a intermixture of scrap timber and purchased woods from the local lumber M . rubbish Sir Henry Joseph Wood is actually a great alternative , even if it is snick up – adding a rustic flavour to the finished objet d’art .

Step 2 – make The Top Curved BoardsTaking the two 29″ 2 x 10″ piece – we traced a long curl line on one and reduce it out with the scroll saw .   We traced the cutout to the second instrument panel to match , and made our 2d stinger .

We then laid out the frames on the floor upside down.

Step 3 – put Out The Doors : Next , we tack the two room access – one at a meter . We built the doors confront down , assembling it from the back .

We started with ( 2 ) 2 x 6″ x 6′ rail pieces . We then laid   ( 2 ) 29″ pieces between the 2 x 6″ side track for the door . We put the curved instrument panel at top , wealthy with the top of the 2×6 ’s .   We set the other 29″ board   24″ from   the bottom of the door , and the remain 2x4x29″ board   42″   from the bottom .

Step 4 – glue the Frame :

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We attached the tongue and groove boards to the back of the frame with a nail gun

I applied glue to all of the joints and clamped them together while nailing on the backing panel .   I did take an extra footmark and added simple biscuits to the joints for added force   – It ’s a habit of “ overbuilding ” that I lean to have :) .   Simply applying gum to the joints and clamp would have been enough , peculiarly with the backing card and 2 x 4″ braces we attach later .

Step 4 Assembling the Door

Using a 2 x 4 as a template on the outer edge of the back of the threshold skeleton – and with a nail gun , we nailed in all of the 48″ tongue and rut boards across the room access opening – nailing on the top and bottom , and to the 29″ 2 x 4″piece as well .   You could use pallets or rescued boards here just as easily . By nailing in to the door frame boards , the door becomes one solid objet d’art .   Once done , we repeated the outgrowth and built door # 2 .

We added 2 x 4 trim boards to each side and the top for extra detail

We added 2 x 4 trim boards to each side and the top for extra detail

Step 5 – gather The Headboard :

We took both doors to their lasting location before assembling into the last headboard . Placing both door side - by - side with the fronts facing the wall – we screwed in the top 2 x4 x 80″ small-arm to link the two doors .   Then we installed the remaining two 80″ boards – one at the very bottom and one at the bottom of the 2 x 10 x 29″ plug-in locate below the clapper and channel boards .

Step 6 – Trim and Hardware :

We added 2 x 4 trim boards to each side and the top for extra detail

Next , we flipped it around , and tote up a match of 2 x 4″ trim boards on each side as well as the top to trim it out and give a little depth .   All that was left was to stain , and append the old barn hardware .   We complete it off with a couple of old lantern , and the headboard was consummate !

From start to finish – the entire undertaking take about 4 hour .   Well , 4 1/2 if you number cleaning the service department back up 🙂

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We added a single coat of stain, and it was time to attach the old barn hardware

We added a single coat of stain, and it was time to attach the old barn hardware

– Jim and Mary

The door with lantern and reclaimed barn raceway block bond

We added a single coat of stain, and it was time to attach the old barn hardware

The doors with lanterns and reclaimed barn track pulleys attached

The doors with lanterns and reclaimed barn track pulleys attached

The doors with lanterns and reclaimed barn track pulleys attached